While designing Underground, I was looking at so many incredible women from the late 60s and 70s. Anita Pallenberg was a big reference, particularly for the patchwork leather, minis and some of the more rock ’n’ roll pieces.
Patchwork leather and suede
Anita often mixed leather, suede, print and texture in a way that felt instinctive rather than overly coordinated. That eclectic approach fed directly into Underground’s patchwork leather and velvet pieces, especially the jacket, mini skirt and statement outerwear.
Shop Goldhawk Patchwork Leather Jacket and Goldhawk Patchwork Leather Skirt with Carousel Brown Panelled Baker Hat
Minis with statement boots
She was brilliant at balancing very short hemlines with strong knee-high boots. That contrast between something small and feminine on top and something heavier underneath became a big part of the Underground styling.
Shop Archway Red Embroidered Mini Dress and Highgate Brown Contrast Lace Up Boots
Fur, shaggy textures and oversized coats
Anita’s outerwear was rarely quiet. Fur trims, big collars, suede and richly textured coats gave her looks a more decadent, rock ’n’ roll edge, which comes through strongly in Underground’s coats.
Shop Paddington Cream Shaggy Coat and Chancery Lane Patchwork Velvet Coat
Bold print and pattern mixing
Paisley, florals, embroidery, geometric pattern and animal print all sat comfortably in Anita’s wardrobe. Underground takes the same approach, using strong prints, colour blocking and contrasting details rather than trying to keep everything restrained.
Shop Queensway Geometric Print Lace Shirt
The thread running through all four is that Anita’s style never felt too polished or overthought. There was always a sense of mixing things that shouldn’t necessarily work together, but somehow did, which feels very true to Underground.
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